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ASTORIA IS FOR LIBERTY
Oregon's oldest "new" destination
By Ann Terry Hill
Lights...camera...Liberty. The newly renovated Liberty Theater--or theatre, whichever you prefer, has impacted the entire Astoria area. There is a renaissance happening in this small town of 10,000 and the 600-seat theater is at the core of the revitalization. An enlarged stage, restored oil paintings, and 18-karat gold highlighted interior molding makes this 1920s vaudevillian palace a show place for today's live entertainment. New hotels, fabulous restaurants, and the good vibes one gets from an involved community augment the theater and make a visit here an occasion.
Lewis and Clark stopped over in 1805-6 and the fur traders, known as Astorians, named after John Jacob Astor, came in 1811 to trade with the Native Americans. They all recognized the beauty and potential of this coastal-Columbia River front area. Although Oregon City challenges this, Astoria claims to be the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, even if the British did occupy it for a few years in its early development. You are surrounded by the past here.
Today Lewis and Clark's eyes, and those of the fur traders would pop. Often covered with an Oregon mist, when the sun does shine through, the smell of fresh water, sea winds, and blossoming shrubs revitalize a visitor.
The hills are adorned with Victorian homes, many restored, some just waiting for a new owner. Be aware, real estate prices have skyrocketed in the last three years. The downtown is a mix of kitschy buildings. Most have been around since after the great fire of 1922. It's easy to find your way around , everything seems to spin off east/west running Marine Drive and Commerce Street which is parallel to it. Five minutes and you can be anywhere in town, including up Coxcomb Hill to the Astoria Column.
The history of the area is rich and deep. The Native American influence, the fur trade, later lumber and fishing ventures, made for a mix of cultures and backgrounds and enticed immigrants from European countries seeking a better life. A vital Finnish population exists to this day, and July 26-30, Astoria and the nearby community of Naselle, Washington will host International Finnfest 2006. They are expecting about 3000 Finns from all over the United States as well as from Europe. Extravagant plans are being made. Activities will range from music to museum exhibits, memorial services for fishermen and cannery workers, crafts, dancing, sporting events, great food and much more.
The town can accommodate the increased crowds and tourists as well. The Cannery Pier Hotel, opened in August 2005. Right on the river, a view room here gives you the feeling you could dip you toes in the Columbia River. Fireplaces in each room take the chill out of the moist climate. Large pane windows and a private balcony off each room offer unrestricted views of the picturesque river traffic night and day. In fact, you can even enjoy the panoramic view from the bathroom, which boasts a large view window. Complimentary breakfast and an evening wine and hors d'eouvre hour hosted by the hotel make this a most amiable place to stay.
If you prefer a touch of nostalgia and the past, check in at Hotel Elliott in the center of downtown and across the street from the Liberty Theater. The attention to detail and luxury in this renovated hotel leaves nothing to be desired. Every comfort has been considered. As you slide in the feather bed for your night's rest, your feet are already warm from the heated stone floor in the bathroom. The fireplace, spun glass wet sink, marble vanity and handcrafted cabinetry add to the elegance of each room. The roof top garden, Cigar Room and Cellar Wine Bar complete the old time luxury of this 32-room establishment.
Perhaps one of the most fun things is to indulge your desire for fresh seafood by sampling the smorgasbord of restaurants in the town. Cannery Café, where you feel you dip you finger in the river because it's so close to the water's edge, serves up some of the best catch-of-the-day you can find anywhere on the coast. The martinis come in a glass so huge, one is enough to make you think you are able to swim the river. Schooner's Bistro on Twelfth makes a great pre- or post-Liberty Theater stop. The crab cakes take the cake (pardon the pun.) Schooner's is conveniently located right across the street from the Elliott.
Perhaps the most colorful eatery in town is the funky Columbian Café. Here owner/chef Uriah Hulsey serves up some of the tastiest, most imaginative dishes anywhere. Whether in a booth or on a bar stool, the banter and aromas coming out of that tiny kitchen are worth the stop. The finished product is fabulous. Uriah doesn't take his position lightly, and has been known to ask customers to leave if they don't suit his fancy. One of the items on the menu is Seafood Mercy. When asked what that meant, Uriah replied, "You get what's served. You are at my mercy."
If you want a break from seafood, try Rio Cafe. a Mexican restaurant that's been around for 13 years. Everything is fresh- local- daily, not to mention authentic. Vegetarian choices include the Burrito Fresca, which tastes like a Spring garden with a little salsa added. The oil cloth table clothes and old ceiling fans only add to the flavor.
A new candidate in the food line is Pier 39, the old home of the Bumblebee Tuna Cannery. The river views are spectacular, and the food served in Rogue Ales Public House is generous and tasty. Coffee Girl, also housed there, makes a good stop for specialty coffee, breakfast and lunch items.
While away your time between meals with a visit to one of the several museums in town. The Columbia River Maritime Museum highlights the area's rich history. It is the first nationally accredited maritime museum on the Northwest Coast. This museum pays tribute to all the seafarers who enriched community life.
Capt. George Flavel House Museum, built in 1885, is considered one of the best examples of Queen Anne architecture in the Northwest. Flavel, a riverboat captain imported many items from around the world for his home. It is a showplace. If you're into historic places, Grace Episcopal Church, built in 1886 and still open for worship, is authentic Victorian and exudes old world flavor and charm.
Heritage Museum, Clatsop County's Historical Society's legacy to the area in the original City Hall, and one of the few buildings that didn't burn during the 1922 fire, houses many artifacts pertaining to the area's rich and sometimes bawdy past, including a partial reconstruction of one of Astoria's infamous saloons. The museum is home to the Historical Society's archives and research library. Liisa Penner, archivist for the museum, has worked there for decades. Information she doesn't know first hand, she can quickly look up for you.
One can't visit Astoria without making a stop at the 125-feet-tall Astoria Column. Not only does it offer 360 degree views of the Pacific Ocean, the Oregon and Washington Coast mountain ranges, the Columbia River and Astoria, the column has 14, 25-foot-long scenes depicting the history of the Northwest. It is all carved and engraved into the cement structure.
Coordinate your visit to Astoria with one of the many events scheduled throughout the year, or the live entertainment at the Liberty Theater. It may be the oldest settlement in Oregon, but Astoria is "happening" and definitely worth the soujourn.
For more information:
Astoria-Warrenton Area Chamber of Commerce
Telephone: 800.875.6807
www.oldoregon.com
Finnish Fest
www.finnfest2006.org
Cannery Pier Hotel
Telephone: 888.325.4996
www.cannerypierhotel.com
Hotel Elliott
Telephone: 877.378.1924
www.hotelelliott.com
Liberty Theater
www.liberty-theater.org
June 2006
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