 |
FALLING FOR IGUASSU
By Patricia Lamb
When Eleanor Roosevelt viewed South America's Iguassu Falls, she reportedly commented, "Poor Niagara! This makes Niagara look like a kitchen faucet!" These magnificent cataracts, near the borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, are higher than Niagara and wider than Victoria Falls. Many world travelers argue that Iguassu Falls is also more beautiful than the other two.
By all accounts, Iguassu Falls is among the most awe-inspiring sights in the world. Located near the convergence of the Iguaçu and Parana rivers, 275 separate horseshoe shaped falls thunder 236 feet down an abyss, creating clouds of spray along with colorful rainbows. If you saw the feature film "The Mission," you will never forget the sights and sounds of the powerful rushing waters plunging over a precipice.
Brazilian and Argentines debate endlessly over which country got the "better"side when borders were drawn up. The question is academic; the Brazilian side offers panoramic vistas across the river gorge, but the Argentine side gets you closer to the drama as you traverse wooden walkways along and over the falls. More of the falls lie on the Argentine side, but you can see them better from the Brazilian side.
To experience the immensity and power of the raging waters, you should take walking tours on both sides. Don't forget to pack a raincoat or poncho and a waterproof camera – you WILL get wet.
The national parks on both sides of the falls are alive with tropical birds, curious raccoon-like coatis, 200 species of trees, reptiles, amphibians, and over 250 butterflies. As I stood admiring the view, a butterfly settled on my arm. I could see its tiny green tongue darting out of its mouth rapidly as it deftly licked away drops of perspiration. My new friend stayed on my arm as I walked around the falls and only flew away about half an hour later when I returned to the hotel.
Iguaçu (Brazilian spelling), which means "big" or "great" water in the native aboriginal language, was unknown to Europeans until the 1540s. During the 1930s, it became part of a national park. Half a century later, the falls received the distinction of being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Each nation's side has a five-star hotel within park boundaries. We stayed on the Brazilian side at the Tropical das Cataratas Hotel. It's a well run, rambling low-rise pink edifice constructed in the colonial style. Although you can hear the falls from your room, the jungle obscures the sight of the falls except from the hotel's reception tower.
The equivalent hotel in Argentina's Parque Nacional Iguazuì (Spanish spelling) is the Sheraton International Iguazuì, where half the guest rooms boast views of the falls. Sunsets are supposed to be especially spectacular here. I spoke to a visitor who had stayed at the Sheraton, timing his visit for the night of a full moon. After hearing his description of the falls by moonlight, I decided that, for contrast, I'll stay on the Argentine side of the falls the next time I visit South America.
Most of the guidebooks I consulted recommend beginning your explorations on the Brazilian side. A zigzagging pathway just past the Cataratas Hotel takes you down the side of a gorge, toward the river below. Ignore the coatis begging for food and stop at one of the lookouts to experience the wind and spray coming off the mighty falls.
After our walking tour, we braved a zodiac boat ride run by Macuco Safari. The trip costs about USD$30 and is worth every real (the currency of Brazil.). The Macuco company picked us up at our hotel in a tram, as there are no private vehicles allowed in the park. Before we began our conquest of the rapids, we coated ourselves in citronella oil, compliments of the company, hoping to ward off mosquito bites on our way to the water.
As we rode by tram and jeep from the road to the river, through the jungle, our guide pointed out wild orchids and other flora while making corny jokes about Tarzan and mothers-in-law. At the pier, we climbed into a 25- foot zodiac with twin outboard engines. We fought the surging current for about two hours, struggling against the rapids as we headed toward the base of Maruco Falls. We got so close to them that at one point we thought we were actually going under the falls.
The next day we decided to take a helicopter tour to get a different perspective of this natural wonder. Although some environmentalists oppose these tours because of the noise they create, it was a thrill to see both sides of the falls at once and to experience the enormity of the site. Our pilot circled around, allowing for everyone to get good photographs through the windows.
Crossing the border to the Argentine side is easy, as there are few border formalities. Once on the Argentine side, you switch languages from Portuguese to Spanish and change currencies from the Brazilian real to the Argentine peso. Don't forget to bring your ponchos and waterproof cameras along, because you will get wet here too.
We began our visit at the Visitor Center, where we examined large maps of the park. Native people had set up handicrafts for sale in the parking lot. A natural gas train takes visitors to the trailheads of the various paths and catwalks. The walkways are divided into Upper Circuit and Lower Circuit, and both are well worth the effort. A footbridge leads to the unforgettable Garganta del Diablo, "Devil's Throat," where 14 different falls combine forces.
Poor Niagara!
Getting there:
Aerolineas Argentinas flies daily from Buenos Aires to Aeropuerto Internacional Cataratas del Iguazìu.
Varig and TAM serve Aeroporto Internacional Foz do Iguaçu on the Brazilian side.
When to go:
We traveled during October, which is springtime in the southern hemisphere. It was a pleasant and uncrowded time to be there. March through June is supposed to be another good time to go to avoid crowds and experience good weather. The peak season for hotels is January and February (summer holiday), July (winter break) and Easter week.
For more information:
http://www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br
http://iguazuargentina.com
|
