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NATIONAL PARKS OF QUEBEC
Adventures for every season
By Robert Painter
Are you jazzed from watching the Tour de France and ready for your own spectacular cycling adventure? Are you a rock climber looking for a fantastic wall? Are you a kayaker or canoeist searching for new water to explore? Do cross country skiing and snowshoeing turn you on, especially if you get a chance to see the Northern Lights at the same time?
Maybe you're a hiker and want steep day hikes that burn tons of calories and provide wonderful panoramic vistas. It could be that you prefer your outdoor adventures in the winter.
A recent summer journey to Quebec provided all that and more. And, if you want to practice your French you'll be understood by just about everyone. But you can get by very well in English once you step off the plane in Quebec City. And don't worry about all the gear you'll need if you try to do all the activities available - most you can rent. Although, you may want to bring along your own helmet, backpack, sleeping bag, leave the bike and canoe at home. And if you don't want to camp out, there are plenty of great bed and breakfasts in the area - and most with terrific French chefs.
You can make this journey as physically challenging as you want - or do it easily and leisurely. Mix it up with some tough days and some lux days. Either way you may want to begin at the Parc national des Grands-Jardins. I was planning on cycling the Saint-Anne Trail but arrived late and opted to climb the Lac des Cygnes mountain instead. It's only about 3,000 feet, but remember everything starts at a lower altitude there. I found everything from subalpine plants and lichen to tundra flowers. I think I even spotted a fox. There are woodland caribou and lynx in the area as well. Fortunately, I was able to hike with one of the park naturalists and he pointed out fascinating geological formations as well as plants and animals.
That evening I decided on Relais des Hautes-Gorges, a quiet little bed and breakfast about one-hour-and-a-half from the park. It was a very modest looking and I wondered if I should eat there or drive down the road in hopes of finding something more interesting. I stayed put and probably had the best meal of my trip. The chef is also the owner and told me that he runs the inn and also prepares all the meals.
The next day, Sunday, I rose early to get a good start. I had a difficult five-hour hike ahead and wanted to squeeze in a boat ride at the end of the day. After a one-hour drive, I met the park warden at the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Riviere-Malbaie National Park. I was lucky and latched on to a beautiful young park ranger, headed to the top of the Acropole des Draveurs, where she was assigned for the day. The climb was steep. I was told that initially, the park system designed most of their mountain trails so visitors could hike as steeply and quickly as possible. That means there are lots of stone steps ? and I do mean lots. They have since realized that it may be better to build more switchbacks and make the ascent gradual so that more people can climb and see the fabulous views. The gorges over the river are imposing and are the highest cliffs in North America. The striking views from the mountain top offer a splendid reward for the hearty few who make it to the top.
Sadly, I left my beautiful young guide at the top of the mountain and headed down as quickly as my knees would allow. There was still time to catch a ride on the riverboat that sailed upriver from a small dam. It was a beautiful late afternoon trip and I could see the mountaintop where I had just been. That mountain really looked high from the comfort of the boat and I was pleased to have seen it from both the top and the bottom.
It was a beautiful drive out of the park and I motored into La Malbaie in the Charlevoix region to find the Auberge sur la Cote. This is exactly what you might expect a bed and breakfast to look like. A nice green lawn overlooks the waterfront with vines and flowers everywhere. Another excellent meal is had and there is even time for a walk around town.
The next day I decided to explore the Charlevoix region. It's known by some as the birthplace of Cirque du Soleil. I passed on the opportunity to visit the lovely little art galleries and shops and headed into the countryside for a drive. This is an outdoor adventure trip and, even though I'm taking a day off from really active pursuits, I still want to be on the move.
Driving past the old barns and beautiful pastures I recall what dairy farms used to look like when I was a kid. The rolling hills, lakes and rivers are refreshing and after a couple of hours driving around aimlessly it's time to head north to Baie Saint-Catherine where I?ll be getting on a whale watching boat. I arrived a bit early and drove up the coast to a an observation spot. With my binoculars I saw several pods of small white whales. They're belugas and there are a lot of them, seemingly playing and having a grand time. It was time to head off to the boat.
I hooked up with Croisieres AML and headed into the St. Lawrence River. It didn't take long to realize that I should have brought a jacket. It wasn't bad except when facing into the wind. We did see several whales and when we got to the area where I had first seen the belugas from shore, I was rewarded with an up close look at the small white creatures.
As much as I enjoyed the cruise I was happy to get into my warm car and drive a couple of hours to the Auberge des Cevennes at Lac-Saint-Jean in the Saguenay region. This is another lovely bed and breakfast across the street from a river and a great old covered bridge. I got there early enough to walk by the river and through the old bridge. There was enough light to even take a few photos.
The good thing about the bed and breakfasts, aside from the fantastic food, is that there are no televisions in the rooms. My mornings started so early I need my sleep. After a good night's rest I have about an hour's drive to the Parc national du Saguenay. This park turns out to be my favorite.
After meeting the park warden I set out on a 3-hour kayak trip from the Baie Eternite into the magnificent Saguenay Fjord, the only fjord in North America. I was able to paddle right up to the sheer rock faces of the Trinite and Eternite cliffs that rise hundreds of feet straight out of the water. There are no climbers on this overcast day, but I was told that expert climbers come from around the world to accept the challenge of these difficult cliffs. This bay is considered the highlight of the fjord and small day-cruise ships come from the St. Lawrence River to view the spectacular cliffs, watch for Perigrine falcons and observe beluga and minke whales up close and personal.
It was time to head ashore for a difficult ascent to the top of Cape Trinite for a view of the 7,000 pound statue of the virgin, placed there in 1881 by a salesman who fell into the water, while trying to cross what he thought was a frozen Saguenay River. This 5-mile hike might have been only moderately difficult, except that when I started the rain did too ? and it was a heavy. Toward the top there was a really nice shelter, actually a large cabin, but by then it was too late. Completely soaked, I decided to continue to the top. The rain came down harder for about five minutes, but cleared by the time I reached the summit. The climb was worth it. I not only got a bath, but was rewarded with spectacular views of the fjord, the cliffs and the Baie Eternite.
After the long hike down I still had time to wander a bit since I was staying at the same inn and would not have to find it and check in. One of the things that really impressed me in the area was the care and attention given to cyclists. Road signs were posted showing both bicycles and autos, making it very clear that those roadways were to be shared. Even on the pavement large bicycles were painted to emphasize the point.
There is a 256-kilometer cycling circuit around the magnificent Lake Saint-Jean and a published cycling guide that provides all the information needed, including elevation charts, distances, types of roadways, transport services for cyclists and equipment, bike rental locations and repair shops. The guide even tells of a service that shuttles baggage. Not only are waterproof maps provided, there are about 80 volunteers along the circuit with cell phones and tools to help anyone in need.
Although I visited in the summer the park wardens and rangers said there is just as much to do in the winter. Miles and miles of crosscountry ski trails, snowshoeing in the wilderness, ice fishing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, winter hiking. I can't wait to go back and see all the colorful little ice fishing cabins set up on the frozen rivers and lakes.
After I got back to my inn that night I was reminded that I had to see the spectacular sunset from the bay. After eating another superb French meal I hurried to the bay and, sure enough, I was greeted by a spectacular half-hour show as the sun dropped below the clouds and into the water. I went back to my inn and packed, in anticipation of my last day and my last park in Quebec.
The next morning I headed off to the Parc national de la Jacques-Cartier barely one-half-hour outside of Quebec City. I had only a little time there and found it deserved much more. Maybe next time. I had to get to the airport and catch a flight back to New Mexico.
When You Go:
Quebec Parks: www.sepaq.com.
Cycling guide: www.veloroute-bleuets.qc.ca/index.php?id=66?=eng
Charlevoix region: www.tourisme-charlevoix.com/en/accueil/index.asp
November 2005
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