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FLORIBAMA ...
By Andrew Der
This is not Florida, yet if brought here blindfolded, I would defy anyone to convince me otherwise. White sand, blue water, heat, palm trees, all the ingredients necessary for a subtropical experience are present.
But, this is Gulf Shores, Alabama and it looks more like Florida than a lot of Florida. This 30,000-acre Gulf of Mexico island community at the southern tip of Alabama mingles southern hospitality with a warm weather getaway, with no crowds or the degree of pavement of the better known tourist destinations.
The setting of Forest Gump's shrimping industry, and home of the largest fishing fleet in the northern Gulf, this retreat has retained its character. It is unscathed from hurricanes and continues to attract those who appreciate a quiet beach experience; a splash of southern culture; a few lessons in history; wildlife; spectacular seafood; fishing; and 12 courses of championship golf. It all comes without driving as far from north. Just remember to not feed any alligators in the storm water ponds. If arriving by air, remote does not mean far away. Both Mobile and Pensacola are within easy driving distance and efficiently serviced by different airlines.
The obvious activity here is doing nothing at all. Beach combing and nature observation are superb, and if relaxing on the white beaches needs a disruption, a quick excursion to a nature preserve or secluded magnolia lined historic street is just the ticket. At the beach, play pick-up volleyball, sail, windsurf or rent a jet boat. Avoid dining on land fare while there because nature's seafood soup of the Gulf of Mexico has generated the best fin and shellfish anywhere. Try the red royal shrimp followed by bread pudding, a regional favorite. Eat outside at one of the well-known restaurants to enjoy the soft southern breezes.
Accommodation choices offer the perfect balance of beach side cottages and apartment rentals with a sprinkling of high rise condos. There are many choices available in various pricing spectrums. Cottages can be quiet and secluded. Try the Beach House Bed and Breakfast. For condominium fare, try the Gulf Shores Plantation or the Beach Club. These havens of comfort are fully furnished and have every possible recreational amenity. The Plantation alone has six outdoor and one indoor pools. There are also golf courses sprinkled everywhere there. Beach House is also a corporate steward of nearby beach and dune ecosystem conservation efforts, including protection of three federally endangered wildlife species.
Families frequently find their favorite leisure activity outdoors among nature. Given that, make your first break from the beach with a nature walk nearby at Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge. This spectacular natural gem is an example of excellence in conservation and demonstrates that nature can be enjoyed rather than avoided. Created in 1980 and consisting of 6,700 acres of pristine coastal ecosystems, Bon Secour, French for safe harbor, preserves dunes and marshes, freshwater swamps and pine-oak woodlands as well as rare plants and animals. Local favorites include sea turtle nesting, migratory birds and wild flowers, highlighted by a rare mixing of temperate and subtropical plant species. Stop at the visitor's center and pick up a trail guide. Stroll to your hearts content and see how many of the plant and animal species described in the brochures you can identify.
There, I saw a robust octopus resting and flexing its gill jets and tentacles in one-foot of clear water near the calm bay shoreline of a marsh trail. It was a rare find indeed, considering predatory birds usually gobble up this soft and succulent prey in such unprotected and shallow waters.
For the ultimate outdoor appreciation, sign up for a boating excursion. Numerous vendors are available for power boating and sailing tours. If you like fishing it is almost illegal to leave without sampling the sport fishing prey of the gulf. Try black and striped bass, bream and red drum or board a deep see charter at Orange Beach and go after marlin, red snapper or mackerel. If you feel lucky and skilled, try the World Championship Red Snapper Tournament in April. For just nature appreciation, Sailaway Charters offers a truly unique 2-hour boating experience, complete with an informative naturalist-guided tour of the local marine biology and resources.
Passengers are introduced to the watery fauna and given hands-on demonstrations of shrimping, oystering and crabbing in between exploring the bays, bayous and marshes. The first mate cleverly sneaks in some biology and nature education on the sly while demonstrating fishing techniques. All the while, dolphins are surreally surfing around in waters you might think are too shallow. The highlight of the trip was a trawling net that was released into the water. When it was hauled back it was full of flopping bay bounty. The critters were transferred to a holding tank and examined at close range, much to the delight of landlubber kids of all ages.
It is easy to forget you are in the heart of southern culture while soaking in the tropical-like beaches. But, if a break from the beach seems inevitable, a 15-mile inland jaunt to picturesque and cozy Magnolia Springs provides the best diversion and country relaxation around. Steeped in Spanish, Creole and civil war history, this river front community, with its oak-canopied streets, reeks of relaxation and tranquility. Stroll around the neighborhoods, take a refreshing dip in the mineral springs, have a home cooked meal, go fishing or even watch the motorboat mail carrier make deliveries in dockside boxes on the Magnolia River.
Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, check out the Moore Brothers Village Market and Jesse's Restaurant, the community's general store, eatery, filling station and social center. Browse the knickknacks and sample the authentically prepared gulf coast seafood and Louisiana specialties, including Caesar salad with encrusted catfish; crab cakes; soft-shell crabs; gulf shrimp, étouffée and goat cheese grits. This may be a great opportunity to bring back some unique groceries to your Gulf Shores bungalow. For longer visits, the place to stay is the Magnolia Springs Bed and Breakfast, an 1890s Victorian home also listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Featured in the This Old Housetelevision series, the rooms are like a trip back in a time machine, but without any loss of amenities. Guest rooms have private baths, telephone, cable television, antiques, wood floors, walls and ceilings.
Experience history and cultural and explore the region's Civil War heritage. Many visitors who may be literate about northern events, discover the region offers the opportunity to round out that knowledge with what some residents call "the War of Northern Aggression." Some popular sites: Fort Morgan, Fairhope Historical Museum, Fort Mims, Baldwin County Heritage Museum and Blakely State Park. Being a significant Confederate port, the Battle of Mobile Bay as well as the Overland Mobile Campaign are a primary theme for Civil War aficionados. These prominent historical events included some of the very first intense sea battles utilizing ironclads and torpedoes. If visiting only one site, choose Fort Morgan ? it is close by and covers history from the war of 1812 to World War II.
Hurricanes over the last couple of years have closed some of these temporarily for reconstruction, so call first. Not to worry, this resilient and valiant community has always emerged victorious over nature's somber reminders of who is in charge. It will take more than a hurricane to overcome the welcoming hospitality and natural resources of the Gulf Shores; but that doesn't mean you should wait any longer to visit this subtropic southern nirvana.
Resources and contacts
Eating
King Neptune's Seafood Restaurant
Telephone: 251 968 5464
Gulf Bay Seafood Grill, www.gulfbayseafood.com
Telephone: 251 974 5090
Calypso Joe's, www.calypsomango.com/calypso/index.htm
Telephone: 251 981 1415
Bayside Grill
Telephone: 251 981 4899
More Information
Alabama Gulf Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau
PO Drawer 457, Gulf Shores, AL 36547
www.gulfshores.com
Gulf Shores Welcome Center - Hospitality & Information Department
3150 Gulf Shores Parkway Highway 59, South, Gulf Shores, AL 36542
Telephone: 251-968-7511 or 800-745-SAND
Orange Beach Welcome Center & Administrative Offices
23685 Perdido Beach Blvd., Highway 182, Orange Beach, AL 36561
Telephone: 251-974-1510 or 800-982-8562
Places to stay:
Gulf Shores Plantation
P.O. Box 1056, Gulf Shores, AL 36547
Telephone: 800-554-0344
www.gulfshoresvacations.com
The Beach Club
925 Beach Club Trail, Gulf Shores, AL 36542
Telephone: 888 260 SAND or visit www.beachclubal.com
Phoenix VI Condominiums
26802 Perdido Beach Blvd., P. O. Box 4009, Gulf Shores, AL 36547
Telephone: 251 981 6901
The Beach House Bed and Breakfast
9218 Dacus Lane, Gulf Shores, AL 36542
Telephone: 800 659 6004 or visit www.bigbeachhouse.com
Things to do:
Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge
www.fws.gov/bonsecour
U. S. Fish & Wildlife Service
12295 State Hwy180, Gulf Shores
Telephone: 251 540-7720
Sailaway Charters
24231 Gulf Bay Road, Orange Beach
Telephone: 251-974-5055
www.geocities.com/sailorskip
Kayak Safari
4100 Harbor Road, 1000 Captain Trent Lane, Orange Beach 251 981 1386
Telephone: 251-981-1386 or visit www.dolphinandkayaksafaris.com
Moore Brothers Village Market and Jesse's restaurant
14770 Oak Street, Magnolia Springs 251 965 3826
www.moorebrosmarket.com
Magnolia Springs Bed & Breakfast
PO Box 329, 14469 Oak Street, Magnolia Springs
Telephone: 800 965 7321 or visit www.magnoliasprings.com
Fort Morgan State Historic Site
Telephone: 251-540-5257
www.800alabama.com/alabama-attractions/details.cfm?id=1158 110 Hwy.
Flora-Bama Lounge
17401 Perdido Key, Dr., Pensacola
Telephone: 251 980 5118 or visit www.florabama.com
November/December 2005
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