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YACHTSMEN WITHOUT A YACHT
A unique island-hopping journey
By Tom Booth
While it's wonderfully possible to be an aimless wanderer among the islands of the Pacific, it must be remembered that nearly all islands insist that visitors support themselves and are in possession of ongoing airline tickets.
In short, the once common status of being a penniless beachcomber is no longer permitted. So, considering all the above, let's suppose that reasonably solvent travelers have been drawn to the myriad islands of the South Pacific or South East Asia, and that he or she has a keen interest in boats that move among these bits of land. Such people are often defined as "yachtsman without a yacht," and will, almost surely, be looking for a piece of seagoing action.
Being of similar persuasion and with modest success at setting out to sea on other peoples' boats prompts me to offer a measure of advice and encouragement.
First, in the district center of any island group, or town where land touches the sea, there's likely to be a marina or yacht club. And in these places, unless the club is private and posh, visitors will be welcomed by boat-owners, always happy to talk with kindred spirits. Better yet, some of these folks may offer more than just conversation. I once strolled among the forest of masts on the docks of the Ala Wai Marina in Honolulu and fell into conversation with the crew of a 35-foot sloop. They were loading nourishment onto the vessel. My interest must have been seen as enthusiasm, for I and my wife, Betty, were invited to join them for the afternoon sail. We were only gone for two hours but during that time the matter of long distance voyaging arose and with it the possibility of becoming a crewmember. These hospitable folks told me that by reading and using the bulletin boards of their marina and those of the nearby Waikiki and Hawaiian yacht clubs, opportunities for crewing often developed. And, while this can happen in a jumping off place like Hawaii, it's also possible in island groups that stretch from Tahiti to Singapore.
A person serious about this activity needs to prepare a resume that can be tacked onto convenient bulletin boards. It should indicate age, background, including academic, sailing experience, and whether or not he or she is willing to share expenses. A recent photo is advised, and finally a local address must be included. For starters, let's approach Tahiti. For yachtsmen, Tahiti, and all of French Polynesia, has the most magical name in the South Pacific, and because of its lure, yachtsmen, and their boats appear in throngs. But, because a yacht, from nearly anywhere has to cover thousands of miles to get to Papeete, the usual port of entry for French Polynesia, crews often need to be replaced, or increased, creating an opportunity to become a crewmember.
Show up in Papeete, and while letting the pleasures of that port wash over you a few days, stroll along the quay in the town center and make yourself known to the crews on the multitude of yachts tied there. Then, with resume, in hand visit the Yacht Club de Tahiti in Arue, near Papeete. Examine the bulletin board, then tack your resume to it. I can't guarantee success, but chances of sailing away to the Tuamotus, Society Group, Marquesas, the Gambiers, perhaps beyond, are quite possible.
The Cook Islands
Start With Rarotonga
The same opportunities, on a smaller scale than Tahiti, are possible just west of French Polynesia, in the Cook Islands. Again, visit the harbor near the main town of Avarua, and announce your presence via the Port Authority bulletin board. Then, enjoy the many pleasures of Rarotonga, which are much cheaper than Tahiti. However, if you don't find a yacht and insist on going by sea to the jewel like islands of Penrhyn, Manihiki, and Rakahanga, 800 or so miles to the north, the Maunga Roa and the Taimoana, may provide transport. These two ships are small, ameneties are severe, seas can be rough and the food is far from gourmet; but the 12-day roundtrip voyage will, at about $ 275 (United States), provide some of the most beautiful atolls in the world.
The Samoas
From Hawaii, American Samoa is easily accomplished by Hawaiian Airlines. Once settled into this verdant land, surrounded by abrupt green mountains, check out the yacht anchorage in the bay, just off downtown Pago Pago. You may find there are boats, probably from Tahiti or the Cooks, that are moving west with the prevailing trade winds. It won't take long to explore possibilities. But, just to the west, 80 miles from American Samoa, or 20 minutes by air, is Western Samoa, and there the tropics and Polynesia are at their most intense. Even if you don't set out to sea there is plenty to do and see. However, on the Mulinu'u peninsula, close to downtown Apia there is a friendly little yacht club, complete with a congenial bar. Here, it's easy to fall into conversation and explore possibilities by visiting yachtsmen and locals. If luck doesn't prevail at the yacht club, consider an alternative. Visit the Office for Tokelau Affairs in Apia and ask about sailing, by chartered vessel to the remote atolls of the Tokelau Group, 300 miles to the north. The ship is usually small and austere, but the 6 to 9-day voyage is a winner. With cabin and meals included the fare is about $200 (United States). Write to Tokleau Affairs well ahead of time for this jaunt.
Tonga
One of the best places to find crewing opportunities is on the island of Vava'u, 200 miles north of the administrative center of Tongatapu. Flights from Tongatapu are frequent. Yachtsmen and their boats have discovered Vava'u and are clustered in and around the Port of Refuge, which is in an arm of the harbor near Neiafu. These boats, flying the flags of New Zealand, Australia and the United States come in all sizes. There are 28-foot homemade sloops, 33-foot double ender yawls, 45-foot ketches, and 60-foot mahogany-teak schooners that cost more than Beverly Hills real estate. In Vava'u, the best source of seagoing information happens in the Paradise Hotel bar where a lot of the "yachties" gather at happy hour. A simple, "may we join you?" is all that's necessary. You'll be welcome, since yacht people are generally eager to talk about their boats, and passages. Betty and I fell in with such a group, and not only were invited aboard several boats, but one young American, with a 28-foot sloop invited us for a sail. It was planned only for a few hours, but ended as two glorious days of tacking and reaching among these vibrant islands. Our only obligation, albeit voluntary, was to provide food. The "yachties" know a good place when they see it, and I'm sure that chances of becoming a crewmember are good here.
Fiji
The yacht club in Suva has a congenial bar, and is a good place to inquire about share expense possibilities. But in the town of Savusavu, on the nearby island of Vanua Levu there's a yacht center called Emerald Yacht charters. An unusual number of privately owned cruising boats continually turn up there, and it's one of the better places to find a "share-expense" berth.
The Solomon Islands
In Honiara, on Guadalcanal, the capital of these islands, there is a yacht club practically next door to the Mendana Hotel, which is also a good place to stay. The bartender at the Yacht Club will quickly organize membership where you'll quickly meet the locals. No long distance boats were on hand during my visit, but, a thirsty English local announced that he was running his 40-foot power boat down the coast, 35 miles, to Aola Bay, and would welcome company. We happily agreed. The sea on that trip was blue and placid. Aola Bay was a place of multi hued beauty, and on the two-day passage our new friend provided unlimited measures of beer, laughter, and island lore.
Papua New Guinea
In this area, I suggest that visitors concentrate on the islands off the north coast of this immense island. Places like Samarai, the Trobriands, Goodenough, the five tiny Amphletts, New Britain, and New Ireland. Then on the mainland pay a visit to Lae, Madang, and the Sepic river. Back of beyond beauty prevails anywhere you go, and at the end of the day there's nearly always a comfortable bed, a cold drink and good food.
Finding a yacht there is a little iffy. So for adventure, check out the sailing of small copra boats and island trading vessels from any of the above ports. It's almost as good as yachting, probably cheaper, and with no work involved.
Malaysia
In Penang and Langkowi, islands off the west coat of Malaysia, easily reached from Singapore, yacht club bulletin boards are rich in commercial and private sailings. They offer trips to Sumatra, Thailand, and south to Singapore.
Hong Kong
One evening we went to a birthday party at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, and sometime during that party I set out for the men's room. Half way between festivities and facilities I stumbled on to their bulletin board. There, I read, "Newly constructed twin-diesel trawler requires crew for voyage to Singapore." Foregoing the men's room I hurried back and told my wife about the discovery. With guarded enthusiasm she agreed that it wouldn't hurt to look into the matter. In short, after careful interviews, the young American owner, needed two warm bodies who could stand, wheel watch, cook, and share expenses. We'd do. In due time the three of us set off on the 1,500-mile voyage to Singapore. The trip, at an economical speed of eight knots took 10 days, and included weather that ran from pristine to foul and stormy. Arrival in Singapore found us relieved, tired, but happy, we'd done a trip that provided a full gamut of the sea's moods. So it goes in the Pacific - and, long live the bulletin boards of yacht clubs - all the way from Honolulu to Hong Kong.
This yachtsman (and Betty) may be reached at Bettyandtom@earthlink.net.
March/April 2006
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