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ALL ABOARD
The American Orient Express
By Norma Hagan
Anticipation
Soon I'll board the American Orient Express' Pacific Coast Explorer for a sentimental train journey in the opulent style of the 1940's and 1950's. On this trip I'll "ride the rails" for six days from Los Angeles north to Seattle, Washington. I'm looking forward to what has been described as a trip that replicates a bygone era when posh trains were enjoyed by the rich and famous. The brochure promises fine dining, spectacular scenery, super service, and an authentic nostalgic experience that duplicates olden times. It all sounds marvelous to me.
Our tour began on a beautiful fall day in late October in Pasadena, California where my fellow passengers - ninety-seven strong and from thirty-three different states ? and I checked into the Ritz for a one-night stay before our journey.
Later, that evening, we were welcomed at a champagne reception, followed by a delicious candlelit dinner. Three friendly staff members greeted us and would accompany us for the entire trip ? from the hotel lobby and through the entire train trip.
Half of our group were members of American Orient Express's Golden Rail Club, for repeat passengers. The members were easily identified by gold name tags. They were noticeably more casually dressed than the we newbie's, with our blue tags. The club members mingled, introduced themselves, and assured us we are in for a fantastic time.
The next day our group left the hotel at 10:00A.M. After a short ride we arrived at the historic Union train yard and carefully stepped over cracked cement to make our way to American Orient Express's premier private train. Attendants in starched white shirts and black bow ties stood at every set of stairs to assist us in boarding.
Just inside formally dressed waiters poured champagne into glass flutes. Beluga caviar was piled high on polished silver platters. Hot hors'doeuvres and even more champagne were served. Fresh bouquets of flowers, candles, and silver bowls of huge fresh strawberries dusted with powdered sugar, decorated every table.
An attendant took my carry-on and escorted me to my cabin. He reminded me of a welcome aboard party in progress in the lounge car, and advised me not to miss it.
Once in my cabin the first thing I saw was my small black roll-aboard that was picked up earlier at the hotel. I always worry about lost luggage, but still love the convenience of not handling baggage.
I heard the cabins were small, but I was astonished by how amazingly diminutive my single cabin in the Portland Car turned was. A Murphy bed, a little chair, a miniature sink and water closet, and a four-inch wide closet gobbled up most of the seven- by seven-foot space. The shower, I learned was down the hall and available only by appointment. I found it hard to believe I would have everything I needed. Amazingly, I did.
Unpacking just didn't seem sensible. My clothes were all rolled up tightly, and I decided that's how they would stay. I put my London Fog, with its bulky liner in the 4-inch closet, and Viola it was filled. My suitcase, carry-on, and pocketbook went on the floor. I decide my cabin was cute and thought of an old sign from school that read, "Cubicle Sweet Cubicle".
Suddenly, the 16-car vintage American Orient Express lurched into motion. The train hissed, groaned, squeaked, and slowly began to rock and roll north for the first day of our adventure. I looked out my large picture window and watched as we pulled noisily away from the Union Station.
Remembering the party I made my way to the lounge car. The sounds of "Chattanooga Choo-Choo" played on a baby grand, grew louder and louder as I approached the festive welcome aboard party.
The dining car was stunning, with marble inlaid mahogany paneling, and gleaming brass appointments. Fresh flowers, crisp white linen, fine china, and white glove service created an old-money, elegant feel that was easy to like. The food was sumptuous. From our table we watched Pacific Ocean waves crash on the beach as the train moved by.
After dinner drinks were served in the lounge car and the pianist played romantic show tunes on the black-lacquer baby grand. My fellow passengers were obviously well-traveled, articulate, intelligent, and the conversation veered toward a lecture series that was slated for the next morning. The train swayed gently and ultra- relaxed passengers retired early.
At the next day's lecture, a history professor spoke on the development of the California railroad, and a sommelier spoke later about the pairing of wine and food.
Each of the seven days was filled with carefully thought-out and well paced tours. Along the way we stopped to disembark for various tours. Our escorts led garden visits, took us to the Hearst castle, the Napa Valley wineries, a few lavish luncheons, and for high teas in five-star hotels.
For more information
American Orient Express
Telephone: 1-800-320-4206
The American Orient Express emulates the Golden Age of Rail travel when dining in elegant sophistication with incredible cuisine was the huge attraction. On the special culinary tour of 2006, Cory Schreiber, recipient of the Best Chef Northwest award taught hands-on Epicurean cooking classes.
The all-inclusive 6-night Coastal Culinary Adventure tour begins is being offered again in May 2006. Fares start at $3,190 per person, based on double occupancy. Single sleepers begin at $4.490.
If you want to see the best of the west coast there is no better or more luxurious route than taking the American Orient Express's Coastal Culinary Adventure. It's a memorable, one-of-a-kind experience.
Norma R. Hagan is a member of NATJA, The National Press Club of Washington, D.C., and is a free-lance travel writer and columnist.
December 2006
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