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SEDONA- A DAZZLING KALEIDOSCOPE
Where old habitats are lost and new ones created
By Leigh Cort
The miraculous geological wonders of America's landscapes, scenic roads that seduce travelers to wander off and climb a mountain, the dazzling spectacle of red rocks and mountaintop ranches, even Western movie images of Tombstone are some of the reasons I chose Arizona as my vacation destination.
I shivered with excitement as I studied travel guides, watched videos and tried to learn about the adventures that might fill the days and nights. I knew a week in Arizona was going to taunt me back forever, but I tossed my concerns to the wind and boarded the airplane.
My first stop was Sedona and the Canyon Villa Inn. I was awed by the splendor of Sedona's red rocks; the grandiose views of its dramatic beauty that almost guarantees you won't take a bad photograph.
Four-thousand-years ago, the Hohokam, a Pima word meaning "those who vanished," Native Americans migrated up the Verde River, settling in the valleys and cliffs. A symbiotic relationship of sandstone, limestone and mud stone form the higher part of the pinnacles and buttes of the stunning red rocks The first white settlers found the miraculous beauty of Arizona and its mysteries in the early 20th century. Sedona, (not an Indian word) and her husband T.C. Schnebly, were the first official settlers of the town in 1902.
The Canyon Villa Inn is a stunning hacienda you may call home during your Sedona visit. Hidden from the rest of the visiting crowds, it blends flawlessly into the tall shadows of Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte. It's perfect for a romantic interlude or eco-adventure. An inviting fireplace and luxurious contemporary furnishing await you at the end of the day, whether you have explored hundreds of art galleries and Native American handcraft shops or taken a guided hike up the Schnebly Trail. Owners Peg and Les Belch make their inn worthy of its AAA Four Diamond designation. It's the first such prize to be awarded in Arizona more than 10 years ago.
Eleven scenic accommodations, each open to a private balcony or walled patio, capture every possible brilliant view of Sedona's kaleidoscope landscape.
The 3-hour drive from Phoenix prepared my appetite for Peg's daily 5:00pm hors d'eoeuvres. It's a time for guests to relax by the pool, share the day's adventures or indulge in Les' well-stocked library. Their international clientele return time and again to spend a few days or a month. This spot is clearly for adults only and each day's conversations with newly formed friendships were a highlight.
Sedona boasts an abundance of restaurants, but one stood out: Dahl & DiLuca's Cucina Rustica. The experience was extreme culinary and visual enjoyment, from the luxurious Mediterranean décor and Spanish guitar music to the stunning service. The restaurants served the perfect blend of rustic Mediterranean cuisine with a Southwestern twist. Shellfish in a white wine and garlic sauce over linguine and succulent lamb chops paired beautifully with robust red wine were my first meal there. Lisa Dahl and Andrea DiLuca's first Sedona restaurant, Dahl & DiLuca, was our choice for the following night. There we enjoyed their "ristorante Italiano'serving," which proved to be equally memorable cuisine, service and exquisite old-world ambience.
A trip to Sedona should include at least one adventure with Mike Krajnak, the creator of Southwest Outside Tours. Driving on narrow 2-lane roads takes practice, so allowing Mike the wheel of his comfy SUV as he pointed out the archaeological wonders gave us an opportunity to relax and absorb the scenery. If you're a hiker, he's a renowned, seasoned private guide and hiking expert with a confident yet careful approach to exploring the trails and reservations of Arizona, Utah and Colorado.
If you have the courage to drive carefully and face the challenge of hairpin turns traversing the huge mountains of the Black Hills, you'll never forget the journey to Jerome, only one hour away from Sedona. I loved this city that dates to the late 1800's when it was a settlement of simple tents. It grew to a roaring copper mining town, once known as the "wickedest town in the west." It's a true story of mines, men and money; today it's a great outdoor museum dedicated to its own amazing story of a picturesque town and powerful industrialists who made it one of the most dominant copper camps in America.
I knew there had to be someone in town that could talk about the Hollywood films of yesteryear when John Wayne and the cowboys thrilled us with gunfights, brew halls and fantastic scenery. By chance, we met Charlie Piper, an amazing gentleman with a fascinating story, now a docent with the Sedona Heritage Museum. His family lived and often appeared in many of the movies during the decades film crews were camped in his hometown, long before road and access. He entertained us with stories and photos of Broken Arrow, Johnny Guitar, Apache and 3:10 to Yuma. With a proud wink and occasional tear in his eyes, he explained the evolution of his town. When we left to return to Canyon Villa, we felt as if we had struck gold.
Early the next morning, I once again stepped out onto my balcony, blinking through the sunrise at the red, orange and dappled mountains that reminded me why Sedona is so captivating. I could smell the cinnamon buns and coffee enticing us to breakfast. Missing one of Peg's breakfasts was against the rules. Warm cookies served before bed the night before were also too tempting to overlook. The ones we ate poolside under the western sky were also irresistible.
As we said goodbye, I knew I would return again to discover the spiritual side of Sedona, where people travel to better understand its enchantment and their place in the world.
For more information:
Canyon Villa Inn of Sedona
Telephone: 888-453-1166
www.canyonvilla.com
Dahl & Deluca
www.dahl-diluca.com
Museum's and other attractions
www.southwestoutside.com
www.azjerome.com
www.sedonamuseum.org
December 2005
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